TJ

About TJ

Tom Judt is an Honors Graduate of the California Culinary Academy of San Francisco. He is most often found drinking beer with his friends, wrestling with his dogs, fixing . . . something and puttering around in the kitchen. The latter is to your benefit!!

I Like Spam-a-Lot . . . With a Side of Eggs Please!!

Green Eggs and SpamLast night I FINALLY had the opportunity to see Spamalot. (Thank you to my host.) Spamalot came out several years ago and hasn’t made it to the West Coast until now. Being a Monty Python fan from way back ( . . . your father smells of Elderberry) I was ecstatic at the chance to see the live performance. Needless to say, it lived up to my every expectation and even surpassed a few. Favorite musical numbers included: The Finnish Fish Slapping song, Always Look on the Bright Side of Life and He’s Not Dead Yet. LOL funny!! All this inspired me to try something I haven’t had since I was a child: SPAM!!

One of my favorite commercials was the “MORE SPAM PLEASE!” It made me laugh every time but failed to move me to the store. This cannot be said for Spamalot as I stopped into my local grocer at 11 p.m., on the way home from the theater, to make sure I picked up a can to have with my eggs for breakfast. I could hardly sleep being bemused at the idea of Eggs and Spam. To be honest, I was happily surprised with the result.

Spam, you see, is a contraction of Spiced Ham. Hormel first packaged Spam as Hormel’s Spiced Ham. One year later they changed the name and the rest is history. Upon opening the can I couldn’t help but think of the work of previous generations of chefs who tried, failed, and tried again at preserving meats so that they wouldn’t spoil. Until refrigeration became so commonplace in our society, canning was the best and only way to preserve foods mainly to last us throughout the winter months. One of my favorite preserves in Duck Confit. Duck Confit is duck meat poached in duck fat and covered completely in a jar with the same renderings. The perfect seal of fat prevents any bacteria from getting in contact with the meat causing it to spoil. It’s might tasty too! Confit is shortened from the French: Confiture, which is a preserve of fruit.

Spam, while commonplace today, is an example of the pinnacle of the process of food preservation. It utilizes all edible portions of a pig, wasting nothing. It provides protein calories at a very reasonable price and it has a long shelf life. The knowledge and skill needed to accomplish this is beyond most home cooks and chefs alike. My hat is off to Spam in the year of their 75th anniversary, for feeding generations of families and spawning such a fantastic musical farce.

My breakfast today: Fried Spam, whole wheat toast, a glass of low fat milk and 2 eggs sunny side up garnished with both cilantro and jalepeno chutneys. I’m a happy, preserved meat eating kind of guy today.

Eat Well and Smile Often.

tj

Pam Don’t Take My Spam (click it, I dare you)

I’d Like Some Soul Please!!

Dover Sole with Beurre BlancThe man behind the counter asked, “How can I help you?” Who knew the chain of events that simple question would set into motion. “I’d like some sole please?” Just then, in what was obviously a hunger induced hallucination, James Brown came dancing by. I would have shaken it right off but I swear the produce man next to me was side shuffling to the beat in my head. I looked around; nobody else seemed to notice The Godfather of Soul, so I paid for my purchase and made good my exit before Isaac Hayes popped into view. (I’m a Soul Man . . . )

I tell you my muse rarely fails me, this time she hit on a winner. As you may recall I purchased a half pound of lovely butter, this last weekend, from the kind folks at McClelland’s Dairy. What to do, what to do, what to do? A Beurre Blanc of course! And what better for this butter than a delicate bit of Dover Sole. My mouth all a water, I rushed to the kitchen and turned everything on! A busy meal for pots and pans but Wow, was it worth it.

I started with Jasmine rice cooked and topped with thin slices of bitter Mandarin oranges.

2 cups cold water      Bring salt and water to a boil in a small sauce pan with lid
pinch of salt

1 cup Jasmine rice      Add to boiling water, stir and return to boil, reduce heat to low

1 Mandarin Orange, bitter, sliced paper thin
Add 6 slices to top of rice water and cover, steam for about 12 minutes

Next on the stove was the Beurre Blanc. (You’re going to love this!)

3 T Shallot, finely diced
1/2 C White wine vinegar
1/2 C White wine

Combine all 3 ingredients in a small sauté pan over medium-high heat and reduce to about 5 tablespoons in quantity. When reduced, remove from heat and let pan cool a bit

3 oz McClelland’s Butter, soft, in pieces

Whisk in a 2 pieces at a time keeping sauce emulsified, reserving 1 oz to finish.
(if you see the butter separate your pan is too hot. Let the pan cool more before you finish)

Next I turned the oven to 350 F degrees and set out a plate with flour mixed with a bit of salt and pepper. A sauté pan on the stove on medium high heat with about 5 tablespoons of olive oil starting to shimmer was just right. I floured both sides of my Dover Sole filets and placed them meaty side down in the pan, moving them gently back and forth in the oil so they wouldn’t stick. About 2 minutes later, when the had just started to turn golden, I flipped them in the pan and placed the pan in the oven for about 7 minutes.

On the chopping block came onions and mushrooms; which I quickly diced and sliced and tossed into yet another sauté pan hot with a fair amount of olive oil. After they started to sizzle and brown I dropped in chopped mustard greens, salt and pepper, tossed and took off the heat.

My lovely McClelland’s butter was patiently, softly waiting and now its time had come. I placed the sauce back on the heat for a minute just until it started to steam, turned off the heat and dropped in the remaining ounce of soft butter and stirred. Careful, if the pan is too hot the butter will start to break, keep stirring in cold butter to keep it emulsified. I left a few solid pieces of butter sitting in the pan while I removed the sole from the oven. You can always add another piece of solid butter to pull the sauce back together again, if need be.

I set my plate with rice, greens and fish, whisked the Beurre Blanc to a sheen and drizzled it on top. I tell it was so good that I phoned my cooking buddy Suzanne with a full mouth and before she could say hello I blurted, “This is so good!”

She laughed, I ate, no more hallucinations. Later that night, I fell into a peaceful sleep humming to myself, “I’m a sole man. Did-it-good, oh so good. I’m a Sole man, do-do-do-doot!”

Eat Well and Smile Often,

tj

I will be performing at a live concert near you soon . . .

Weekend in Review!!

I hope you all had a lovely weekend, I did! I was up like a bunny, on a sunny Easter Sunday, woke my pal Suzanne, of Cooking By The Bay, and we hopped over to the Marin Farmer’s Market. What a treat to go early on Sunday morning. No crowds; warm, waking sunshine; and so, so, many savory sweet smells coming from all the vendor’s booths. At Suzanne’s wise suggestion, we strolled the market first, greedily tasting samples of butters and chutneys and pestos. It was fabulous. By the time we made it to the end my hunger was in full, raging force and I swear I couldn’t have taken another step if it wasn’t for . . .

The Taco Guys!! These guys, in addition to being great cooks, are a hoot first thing in the morning. Both Jason Hoffman and Justin Close jumped to attention at our approach and handily whipped together a Kahlua Pork Taco for my Easter breakfast. Trimmed with julienne of mango and daikon greens, that sweet little beasty made me a happy man. Suzanne, declining more than a taste, was emphatic is stating, “Eggs, I need eggs, not piggy for breakfast.” Ho hum . . . more for me.

Next stop, Donna’s Tamales for breakfast burritos! Suzanne immediately tucked into the rich, egg filled tortilla stuffed with salsa, peppers and more. I decided to change things up and opted for their Vegan burrito. Hers was delicious and warm, and egg-ily satisfying. Mine was good but I felt it needed more . . . zing. I chose from the salsa condiments they had available and popped them to the top. It spiced it up some. I would certainly eat their food again and look forward to the next time, as Suzanne’s breakfast was, and I quote, – Scrump-dilly-icious! – unquote.

Always a sucker for a sample, this pleasant woman at McClellands’ Dairy tempted me with a bit of butter on a bread stick. YUM!! I was fully intent on not breaking stride (more of a slow amble really but still a stride) but the creamy rich taste of this butter halted me in my tracks. Always hawkish when it comes to paying premium for a commodity I happily dug into my wallet to pay for a half pound of this bit of ‘Oh So Golden’ heaven. What has two thumbs and loves this butter? This guy!

All in all it was a great day to be out with my buddy Suze. Happily sated, we returned promptly to the sofa intent on doing nothing more all day. Nice Sunday . . . zzzzzz . . .

Eat Well and Smile Often!

tj

May I have a side of whipped cream with my bunny please?

Tastes Like Chicken . . . Really!?

Did you know that alligator tastes like chicken? Bullfrogs and rabbits tastes like chicken. Snake, iguana, snapping turtle? Yep, yep and yep; all taste like chicken. Or so says Joe Staton in his Annals of Improbable Research. As do quail, goose and pigeon! Even kangaroos, I’m assured, tastes like chicken. (Sorry, roo, for my friends down under.) Now I can’t speak to Iguana or snapping turtle or roos for that matter but there is one thing, I can tell you, that absolutely does not taste like chicken . . . and that is chicken!

Chickens from Sun and Water Farms don’t taste like chickens. At least not any of the ones I’ve eaten. Tish Tomlinson, of Sun and Water Farms, takes great pride, and goes to great pains to raise her chickens in a method pioneered by Joe Salatin of Polyface Farms in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley. This is as close to free range as a farmer can get and still protect his investment. Joe Salatin’s method involves raising a flock in a large movable pen which provides protection from both the elements and predators.

Once the chicks are old enough to be moved from the brooder, they are placed in these movable pens located in lush pasture land. Here they are allowed to move about freely, scratch, peck and generally be obnoxious. Once every day or two, depending on the condition of the pasture beneath their pen, the flock gets moved over to next next patch of fresh grass and their lives continue stress free. Here they live out their lives protected from the elements; fed healthy, wholesome food at regular intervals; and given room to ‘run chicken run.’ Ah, the farm life.

To my point: These chickens don’t taste like chicken. They taste way better. When cutting open a cleaned bird, just prior to cooking, the first thing you will notice is the color of the fat. Grocery store chickens have loose, pale colored fat. The chickens from Sun and Water Farms have warm yellow fat lines and man I believe it: the flavor is in the fat. This doesn’t mean a skinless breast of Tish’s chicken will be flavorless, quite the opposite, the meat has this wonderful rich savor to it. It is hard to describe really ‘cuz . . . wait for it . . . it don’t taste like chicken!

It just so happens I had one of Tish’s chicken’s in the freezer, which did it no harm at all. I placed it in the refrigerator the night before to thaw and set about cooking it last night. Now even though I studied classic French technique, and the French are world renowned for their sauces, I went light and lean with this fine birdy. Here’s what I did.

Preheated the oven to 450 F degrees

Removed the gizzard and rinsed the chicken well

Patted the bird dry and rubbed inside and out with kosher salt

Placed the salty bird on a roasting rack in a pan
and slid it in to the oven.

(Here’s the French part)

I waited until the bird started talking to me (??)

When I heard the bird start to sizzle and pop, about 30 minutes into it,
I turned the oven temp down to 350 F degrees and continued roasting
for about 30 minutes more.

I checked the internal temperature until I it was about 160 F degrees
(The best place to check temp is not in the plump of the breast but in it alongside the thigh.
Be careful not to touch bone as this will throw your reading off.)

I removed the bird from the oven and inverted it onto a plate
allowing the juices to drain down into the breasts.

Throw that down on a plate with some mashed taters and greens and MMMM . . . mmm
you got some good cooking there.

Eat Well and Smile Often!

tj

Please pass the . . . never mind.