TJ

About TJ

Tom Judt is an Honors Graduate of the California Culinary Academy of San Francisco. He is most often found drinking beer with his friends, wrestling with his dogs, fixing . . . something and puttering around in the kitchen. The latter is to your benefit!!

Dig Inn!!

I think I’ll name my next place Dig Inn!  A  little Farm-to-Table refuge sitting on just a few acres of dark rich soil with fruit trees and chickens and . . .

Wake up!  I’ve got that little place! It’s only a quarter acre but the soil is rich and this season already looks promising.  Up before the sun, I dug up last year’s planting beds and turned in some nutrient rich amendments to give the soil a strong start this season.  Plantings went in quickly and I look forward to my crop of Heirloom tomatoes, Romas, and Early Girls. Acorn, spaghetti and zucchini squash fill up the second bed. Red, gold, serrano and jalepeno peppers share the 3rd with a, soon to be, impressive wall of blue lake pole beans.  It’s going to be a great year, I can just feel it.  Over the next few weeks I want to clear another patch of dirt to plant a bed of leafy greens, lay in a pumpkin patch and perhaps a few corn rows.  (Not those ones silly . . . Real corn rows.)

In a fantastic, totally unplanned, turn of events I am planting the same ground my grandfather planted 20+ years ago. My father grew up on a farm in North Dakota where my grandfather planted many things.  Truthfully the only stories I ever heard of farming were of the homemade beer bottles blowing up in the root cellar because of too much pressure.  No that ‘s not true, I do remember hearing about them putting up beans and tomatoes; making jellies and having fresh eggs. In any event, when he retired here in California he planted a garden in my Great Aunt’s backyard. Now, so am I!!

 

Vintage Sweet Shop Plants all in and hands all washed Suzanne and I took the afternoon together and drove with the top down in her convertible to the town of Napa. Home of many great restaurants we decided to stroll the relatively new Riverfront development which houses Morimoto and Tyler Florence’s Rotisserie and Wine, among others. On our way down the street my inner child’s heart lept with joy as we came upon The Vintage Sweet Shoppe. The sweet smell of their confections reached out the front door and dragged us in by our lapels. Suzanne was good, saving herself for the promise of a rich meal and abstained. Me, I’m weak, a milk chocolate truffle and we’re out the door.

 

Angele Licking my lips we ambled down a half block to Angèle Restaurant & Bar in search of a cool, refreshing cocktail. Man! Did we hit the jackpot. Sitting down we notice the bartender assembling a delicious looking beverage with a sprig of Rosemary. We inquired and learned it was called a Diane Lane. Now I am most certainly a fan of Ms. Lane but I didn’t know she attained such a status as to have a cocktail named after her. (I’m sure it’s not posthumous!!) We order a Diane Lane and a Clear Conscience. The former made up with rosemary, lime, Swan’s Neck Vodka and Bundaberg blood orange soda on the rocks; and the latter with muddled cucumber, ginger, orange, and vodka over ice. We kept swapping back and forth they tasted so good.

 

Gotts Roadside A pleasant little feeling-of-well-being surrounded us as we strolled along the river front on our way to find a coffee when we stumbled upon Gotts Roadside. A new favorite place of mine, that I recently discovered inside the Ferry Building in San Francisco, serves a mean burger and fries. Not wanting to spoil our dinner Suzanne and I cooled our heels in their air conditioned dining room sharing only some lovely, deeply fried french fries. Them and a pair of sodas and we were back on track.

 

 

Ritual CoffeeNext stop Oxbow Public Market to Ritual Roasters for a lovely cup of Monte Rey from El Salavador. A warm, rich smooth cup of coffee. I perked up, we had an energized conversation on our walk to the restaurant and happily finished the weekend off sharing a pleasant meal with friends. I hope your weekend was as productive and relaxing as mine.

Eat Well and Smile Often!!

tj

p.s. Would you please pass me another Sunday??

Vive La France! Vive La Crepe! Vive La . . . My Breakfast!?

Crepe Thomas

Mai Oui!! (pronounced in my kitchen, May Weeeeeee!!)

My father was a patient, intelligent, saint of a man and he proved this by making our family pancakes every Sunday morning. His techniques were unique to say the least. I remember one morning he fired up the dual waffle/pancake griddle and began to rub wax paper onto the surface. (Herein lies the genesis of my love for the science of cooking.) “Wax paper,” I asked “shouldn’t you be using butter?” He smiled that knowing, fatherly smile at me. The one that suggested that, even though my, age appropriate, test scores matched his I was still without a clue. Cluelessly I awaited a response.

“The wax is slippery and keeps the pancakes from sticking without using oil.”  My father was a pharmacist and smart as a whip.  When I began to learn about emulsions in culinary school he helped me understand the similarities and differences of oil-in-water suspensions and water-in-oil suspensions. (It’s a volume thing. Evidently size matters here too.)  Anyways, I asked about eating wax to which he replied, “A little wax never hurt anybody.”  My mother raised an eyebrow, we ate the pancakes and the next Sunday he used butter.

Speaking of pancakes, Le French have a pancake of their own: La Crepe.  Thinking of my father, he was half French but never made us crepe, I set to the blender and stove to make this morning’s breakfast: Fresh crepe with Grand Marnier Strawberries and Ricotta cheese. (It’s okay to say Yum out loud.) It was yummy. Now crepes are not difficult, nor are they easy.  They require a medium skill level to prepare and just the right pan.  The great thing is that if you make enough batter you can practice, practice, practice and if you get 2 right, you can eat!

Crepe Batter

1.5 cups                flour, all purpose

1.5 cups                milk, 1%

3                            eggs, whole

3 Tbsp                   butter, melted

Mix all the ingredients in a blender for 30 seconds. Stop mixing and scrape down sides.  Continue mixing for 30 seconds more or until fully blended.  Pour into a jar and let stand covered for at least 1 hour.  This will let the bubbles settle out.

 

Cooking Crepes

1                              sauté pan, 6 – 9”; you may use Teflon it the surface is not marred at all   ¼ cup                    oil

For metal sauté pans:  Pour all of the oil into the pan and place on medium heat for about 3 minutes.  Do NOT walk away from the stove. As the oil starts to shimmer, gently rotate the pan so that the oil begins to coat up the sides of the pan.  Warm for one more minute then remove from the burner and let sit to cool.  (This process opens up the pores in the metal and allows the warm oil to slightly penetrate the pan creating a nonstick surface.) Pour cool oil into a container and set aside.

Warm the pan over medium heat until a drop of water spatters and evaporates immediately.  Pour 1 tablespoon of oil into the warm pan and ladle in enough batter to just coat the bottom. Lift the pan and rotate it to spread the batter up the sides just a bit.  Pour any excess back into the container for a nice thin crepe.  Work the edges gently with a spatula to keep from sticking and after the crepe sets, slide the pan back and forth so that the crepe slips in the pan.  When the edges turn brown flip the crepe with a spatula, cook for about 1 minute then slide onto a paper towel.  Wipe the pan with a clean towel and repeat until batter is finished alternately stacking crepe and paper towel.

The trick is to keep the pan heat just right; neither too hot nor too cool.

If wrapped well these will hold for about a week in the refrigerator or can be frozen.  Allow to warm to room temperature before using.

 

Grand Marnier Strawberries

 

2 dozen                  strawberries, quartered (sliced not fed and bedded.)

4 Tbsp                   sugar, white

4 Tbsp                   Grand Marnier

 

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and let stand at least one hour.

Lay out a crepe. Dollop some Ricotta cheese and spoon some of the strawberries in a line.  Roll the edges over and turnover on to a plate.  Drizzle with the syrup from the strawberries and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve 2 at a time.

 

Eat Well and Smile Often,

tj

p.s. Let Eataly top that!

Dinner for 12? . . . No Problem!!

Fingerling Potato and Feta Cheese PizzaWhen you have great help, great friends and a great pizza sauce recipe . . . No Problem!!

A few years ago my friend AJ and I were sharing a one pot meal at her house lamenting about how hard it was to gather the ‘Usual Suspects’ for dinner. Scheduling of our busy lives seemed to make it impractical for us to gather on an irregular basis. So, The Second Sunday Supper Set was born. Each month, on the second Sunday, a different friend would host a gathering and the rules are simple: There are no rules. The entire event was up to the host. It could be a formal sit down dinner, a pleasant day picnicking in the park, a potluck meal or anything in between. I must say, it has been a raving success. Since we started, we’ve added a few couples to the group and now we sit at 12 as a regular number and having a set schedule made it easy for everyone to plan ahead. So, if you find yourself not seeing your friends as often as you like then I invite you to join us with your own dinner . . . every Second Sunday works for me.

But! To the meal!

April is my month to host and I was happy to do it. Pizza has been on my mind and ever since Suzanne and I worked out the pizza sauce recipe I have been dying to share it with my friends. We shared 4 different pizzas this go round: Chicken Pesto, Fingerling Potatoes and Feta Cheese, Pizza Margarita and Fennel Sausage with Mushrooms. I don’t know what it is about pizza that makes you keep coming back for more; but the trail is worn between the dinner table and my kitchen counter where fresh, hot pizzas made their Sunday night debut. A happy crowd with some of the liveliest conversation I have ever heard. I was pleased my guests stuck around

Some Rise, Some Set: The Falling Fate of the Egg Soufflé

Leek and Goat Cheese SouffleI did it, I did it, I did it!! I made soufflé!

Okay, it really wasn’t that hard. I started off easy with a Leek and Goat cheese that utilizes a roux for structure. Traditional soufflés are just whipped egg yolks and whites folded together and promptly placed into a hot oven where they spring to life. Time and temperature are critical as the goal is not to overcook the outside while the middle rises and sets. The French have a specific culinary term for a soufflé that falls into the overcooked, flat in the middle, category, “Merde!” (The French are so unforgiving.)

I chose to go with 4 smaller ramekins rather than a large soufflé dish. This turned out to be very instructive as the disparate placement in my oven yielded varying results. The ones further most to the rear were browned on top, sides and bottom and completely cooked through. The front most were browned bottom and side but the top was just golden and the inside still had a pocket or raw mixture. Now I had been given this information before, that the front of the oven is cooler than the rear, but had never experienced it’s effect like this before. I will admit to being unsure about the exact timing and opened the oven door a few times during the cooking process to inspect my little charges. Undoubtedly I released some heat altering the cooking times of each portion. Mea culpa.

All in all it was great fun and them little sucka’s were mighty tasty! Total time to prepare . . . about 20 mins.

FYI: These soufflés must be served immediately out of the oven so timing is everything. As the French are want to say, “The soufflé waits for no king!”

Eat Well and Smile Often,

tj

Below is the recipe forwarded to me by Suzanne of Cooking by the Bay.

Goat Cheese and Leek Souffles Serves 6

1 tablespoon olive oil
3 leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced in half moons
1 ½ cups hot milk
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Pinch cayenne
Pinch each salt and pepper
4 ounces goat cheese
2 eggs separated, yolks lightly beaten
Melted butter for ramekins
¼ cup panko
2 additional egg whites
• Preheat oven to 400°.
• Heat olive oil in a large skillet and sauté leeks until tender, about 4-5 minutes. Remove from heat.
• Melt butter in a saucepan and whisk in the flour, stirring 1-2 minutes to create a roux.
• Gradually whisk in the hot milk stirring constantly to create a thick sauce, about 2 minutes.
• Season with cayenne, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
• Transfer to a large bowl, whisking to cool slightly, and add leeks, goat cheese and egg yolks.
• Brush ramekins with melted butter and coat with panko.
• Whisk the 4 egg whites (or use electric mixer) until soft peaks form.
• Quickly, but gently fold 1/4 of the whites into the base with a rubber spatula.
• Fold in the remaining whites taking care not to overmix.
• Divide the batter among the prepared ramekins, place int he oven and immediately turn the temperature down to 350° and bake until golden, puffed, and just set in the center, about 30 minutes.
• Serve immediately in ramekins, or use a knife to cut soufflés out and place on plate.

p.s. May I have some more?